GZ34

If you set your amplifier to 245V (Europe AC is ~235V) and you measure less then 405V on A or C pins of the DC power supply (anode supply for the EL86, easy to measure on the top laying fuse) , then you should think about to replace the rectifier GZ34. Philips (Valvo, Mullard) tubes were awesome, I can recommend them really. Also replace if measuring with oscilloscope unbalance, lack of one of the channels, see scope picture, where one channel has 5Volt lower peak, may cause some humm.

Code structure: type | type | batch/construction –  factory | year |month | week

Type markings of GZ34: F3 (Bant), rS (Eindhoven), mN, tV1 (Last version of the metal base GZ34 until 1957 as tv2 coded)

Example: f33 L2H3

Type: F3=Gz34 , construction=3, L = Brussel, 1962, Aug 3rd week

More details here: http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/Tubes/Valvo%20GZ34/GZ34.htm

Philips code list: PDF Download

Tube identification

Code structure: type | type | batch/construction –  factory | year |month | week

Example: I66 Δ0K4
   I6 = ECC83,    I66 = ECC83 of construction #6
   Δ = Made in Heerlen/Holland
   0K4 = Made 197 0 in, November K,   4th week

The most important factories are:

Δ    Heerlen, Holland –> My favorite!

D    Hamburg, West Germany

B    Blackburn, England (GB)

L    Brussels, Belgium

1 2 3 6 9 Eindhoven, Holland

≠    Munich, Germany Siemens & Halske

X Y Sittard, Holland

Philips code list: PDF Download

Long or short plate ECC83?

I6= Short plate –> 15mm

mC = Long plate –> 17mm

Some says about long or short plate(forum):

” I’d generalize that long-plate 12AX7 (ECC83) are more articulate than short-plate: there’s more air and dynamic potential (less compression) to the sound through long-plates, in my experience. I’ve found bass to be generally more distinct or percussive with long-plates, even though there may not be more bass (depends on the tube). Some long-plate 12AX7 break up earlier than other 12AX7, both long- and short-plates; I don’t know if this is what you mean by “gain,” but it isn’t really the same thing. Oh yeah, the other generalization is that long-plates are more prone to microphonics.”

http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/Tubes/Valvo%20ECC83/ECC83.htm

I just at the begin to find out on my own if I hear these differences…

Humm of turntable

I will not talk much about the source of the humm, which is mostly a ~100Hz noise coming from rectifying (2way rectifier fed from 50Hz AC power supply feeds DC twice every cylce, this charges DC power caps with 100Hz). The noise of this can get into the sensitive riaa preamp and is then amplified. This issue is coming from: Not understanding difference in signal ground vs power supply ground or protection earth ground. This is leading to ground loops between these which is ending up in hearable humm, which is killing the music. Is annoying, is dampening stereo stage, while highs sound not lofty.

I will give you easy and very practical guidance how to build up the connections between cartridge, vinyl player grounding, amplifier and signal grounding.

First you nee to understand difference between pink noise and humm to not mix them up. : LINK to be added!

Then you need to understand proper wiring of your vinyl player and then connect it properly to avoid humm. The steps for this:

1/ Understand cartridge grounding

You need to find out if your cartridge housing body is connected to one of the signal ground or not. My Nagaoka MP500 blue – signal ground right is connected to it’s housing. If I mount this to the shell/tonearm and connect grounding also from the tonearms other end, I secure the first loop. It is very important, that grounding has always one source! Two is bad, source of loop, which is source of humm.

Actually it is perfect solution from Nagaoka to ground the body and with this the tonearm, just ensure that the tonearm has no 2nd grounding.

Nagaoka is giving insulation rings to isolate the screw from the body if you can’t remove grounding from the tonearm end.

You can measure out with a multimeter if any of the carridge signal ground is connected to the body, but: Be careful! Measuring cartridge body to ground signal is not harmful at all, but if you measure any signal+ with signal grounding (-) could magnetize up your cartridge killing the separation between left&right.

Reason is that multimeter is operating with DC voltage which is turns cartridge’s coil to a magnet. MC’s are the most sensitive (low resistance, higher current…), so here use an 5M resistor in series while measuring for continuity. Use multimeter in high resistance mode. MM, MI pickups are less sensitive, but you may also here use the same method to 100% avoid any magnetizing.

2/ Connect groundings properly

Made an infographic with the case where the cartridge does the grounding in direction to the tonearm with its screw. If you received insulations for the screw use it on one of the screw, as ground via both screw is again a loop. Minor both is a loop.

In every case feeding signal ground to the chassis is not good as this will harvest too much radiated noise into the signal ground.

Use the ground screw (GND) of your riaa/ amplifier to ground the chassis of your turntable. Do not mix this with signal ground!

If your cartridge has no grounding connection to it’s housing, so there is no grounding from here to shell/tonearm, then use the RG from the incoming cable and ground tonearm from the opposite end.

Noise can come also from lack of shielding, so keep care that signal cable is always well shielded. Will ADD pictures.

Good speakers with AG9015

Till now the best sound was with my Tannoy Chatsworth. This is with the very famous HPD315 Monitor Gold series used till the 90s in many studios. I think closed cabinet is key of importance for well defined bass. I think Tannoy Mansfield with HPD315 or with big sister HPD385 will be also great as these are closed cabinets. The sound of it is realky addictive. Perfect stage, bright an lovely mid, the air is not missing from the highs while bass is awesome. And it eats everything… Every music just sounds awesome.

I have a pair of AD3800AM 800Ohm (as I later realized, these are 400Ohm…) with a joke of cabinet. Sound is very interesting. Some distortion, but the transformerless, 1way sound is really catchy, except lack of bass. The whistle of isn’t she lovely is showing how world could be without electronical or mechanical crossover. (Do not think mechanical crossovers are lack of issues which electrical crossovers have… Just take a look on an upper Zu audio… ) Anyway, decided to let build an box for my AD3800AM. I know it is not closed cabinet, but somehow I have to help this dwarf in the lower region. http://otl800.blogspot.com/2015/01/tqwt-met-philips-ad3800am.html?m=1

Since hearing the AD3800am was always thinking that the AD9700AM 800Ohm is the best option. Will have bass, and overall it will be better. Well, had the luck to host such for some weeks. An extreemely mint condition AD5046 which was the factory loudspeaker for my Philips amp. Well sound is extreemely unique. But is so much lack if bass, that I can’t live longer with it. Classic music, Jazz is nice on it, but overall I live my Tannoy far more.

Here some nice videos with it:

Philips AD5046 (AD9700)

Philips AG9016

With my friends we got curious and planning to source such amp.

It is just 2+2 (or less) watt amp!

My philosophy is that the amplifier characteristic is strongly linked to the tube performance. From this perspective the ECC83 based preamps sound really similar if properly built. And you will see that there is not much type of tube… ECC8x, EF86, … And?!!! Same with the power audio tubes. If you hear one properly built EL34, EL84, K150, KT88, 300B, 6550 … based amp then your already can decide if you like ot or not… And at power tubes not the sound quality, instead the search for more power was the development goal (Sorry to say). Exactly due to this it is very interesting to see an low power, most probably extreemly good sounding tube which I never heard before: THE EL95, which is the amplifier tube of the AG9016. Obviously, less power, less problem with the transformator…. So nice first impressions.

Taking a look on the schematics it is clear we need to remove the harming loudness C4, C34 with it’s resistor R3, R33. Kill tone control, so C5 shoudl go to R14 and also C35 should go directly to R44. This is probaly an 20dB additional gain which I probably will inspect if managable with 1-2V line input… (lover voltage of tubes, modify resistors… Remove one half of ECC83? Modify ECC83 to cathode or MU follower) Kill C13, C43 to remove low pass filter (18kHz). Make tube heating independent and with a potentiometer build it up similar to AG9015 to eliminate humm. Replace electrolyt capacitors… At diodes I am unsure… If they work I will leave them as is. Also the connectors if banana plug of speaker fits.

Checking internet found as in case the AG9018 the guy who seems knowing what he is talking about: http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/GermanTubeHifi/Integamps/Philips%209016/AG9016.htm

, but since his AG9015/Ag9018 opinions, I do not think I should listen at all… “you will always read that they sound very nice… Are you deaf ???” LOL.

Interesting were these forums:

The guy modified it to a preamp. LOL.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/saving-unican-erics-philips-ag9016-from-the-dumpster.580444/

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/rescued-phillips.510489/

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/rescued-phillips.510489/

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/philips-ag9016.70653/

And the video what made me curious (yes, you need an sensitive speaker… also on the way at least I hope so):

Is the tube amp better then a transistor amp?

If you buy an amplifier, then typically these parameters are shared:

Frequency range, signal to noise, harmonic distortion, power rating, impedance, damping factor. (quick and dirty explanation what are these below.)

You compare all the above data and realize that a transistor amp is superior then a tube amp. In all aspects, in all cases.

You may start to feel bad, that you better liked that less high fidelity sound of a tube amp. While you may wonder how the transistor people, hear any difference between their already perfect (at least on technical specs) amplifiers. Actually the issue is not with you. The whole approach with these parameters is simply WRONG and misleading.

Let’s begin with the most cited data, the distortion: tubes are at 0.1%-1%-2%, while the transistor amp is 0.0001% or less… Hope in the bottom explanation I am expressing well that the measurement is really with a single frequency, so these values are not telling, what we as human beings mean really under distortion. So we have practically no idea how the amplifier really sounds with the various frequencies of music. And by the way, as nobody measured the distortion, the manufacturer started to simply lie, so the transistors at THD are better, but not that much.

Real amplification has to fight with upper harmonics, 2nd, 3rd, 5th… grade of a single source frequency. Real music has various frequencies at the same time, so called intermodulation occouring all the time also. Of course intermodulation can be also measured, but that person should hold the hand who saw such data recently within the technical specification of any amplifier. But even if that is measured, tells just the amplitude of unwanted frequencies, created by the amplifier, when supplied 2 frequencies (f1 and f2) and measure : f1+f2, f1-f2, f1+2xf2, 2xf1+f2, and and and. And even if you measure it, who can tell which combination of this distortion sounds less painful…

I am not claiming that things are not measurable, but there is no standard complex measurement that would really tell if an amplifier is sounding better or worst while reproducing music. The existing basic measurements in which results are shared as technical specifications can tell if an amplifier does sound really-really bad. But that’s the outmost what you can see from these data’s. So if you accept this, then tubes or transistors race is not decided based on the poor measurement possibilities.

But why do I say tubes are superior?

Transistor amps work with high current, so power supply is rarely flat. If I disable my Philips AG9015 it does continue to work for 10seconds. The typical transistorized amp has not a second time of reserve before it’s depleting the capacitor reservoir… Just measure out the triangle waves at the power capacitors with 100Hz and start to wonder about harmonics, intermodulation and similar what these are causing.

If you would put transistors in the circuits of tubes (after matching voltages, work point of course), then the measurable harmonic distortion would be 2-15%. Yes, transistors are absolutely far from the linearity of a tube.

The trick of the transistor amplifiers is in their circuit: Uses a massive amount of negative feedback, which resolves the huge distortion, increases frequency range, reduces impedance (better damping factor). So the distorted signal produces a negative correction at the input, so that the outcome looks fabulous. This works awesome. On a single frequency! But due to timing difference between low and high frequencies, this is not working as expected. Works well in the total harmonic distortion measurements, but the benefit with real music isn’t that advanced as measured.

Of course, there are areas where transistor amps are better: You can avoid capacitors in the signal path. Negative feedback is more hard to implement in the tube world due to bigger latencies (would help the same way as in the transistor world), mainly due to the latency of the output transformer which time constraints simply does not allow such. Oh, before I forget… The output transformer, that is again not helping in the sound… But a must have as tubes have to high outgoing impedance.

So as a conclusion, do not believe technical specifications. Do not think this is some kind of magic or mystery, is just the fact that real world is very complex to be measured. Even if measured, hard to interpret data and tell a very subjective info, if this sound better or that…. Due to the lack of easy to understand measurement methods, you have to trust your ears.

My verdict is that tube amps if well built better then any transistorized. Of course not all tube amp is better then a transistorized! Live with it and do not get fooled that you started to like a “distorted” tube sound. Most probably it is closer to high fidelity and that is why you like it, so no shame and nothing wrong with you.

A quick and dirty explanation of some parameters:

Frequency range: example 20-30kHz -3dB – wider the better? These are the frequencies, where the amplifier is fed with an sinus signal and starts to deliver just half (-3dB) of the output compared to the amplitude of 1kHz (0dB). So beyond and below these frequencies, the amplifier gets less an amplifier… In reality, this tells not how flat the amplitude response looks over the frequancy range. It could be better represented with a graph, but rarely done. Maybe +-1dB or something specified… But have to highlight: Results are valid with a single sinus input, so this is again not real life music.

Signal to noise: Again a nice data, where the more is better. Heavy to hear noise above 80-90dB, but depending on thy type and the circuit, such noise can be felt as it interacts (intermodulates) with the listened music

Harmonic Distortion: You drive with a very exact 1kHz (so has no measurable distortion, noise or anything) an amplifier. You measure at the output with a filter (limited bandpass, allows 1kHz to pass) the power of this 1kHz and then measure with a filter (limited band stop, allows everything outside 1kHz) the energy of all the rest signals. Then you express the ratio of this and tell the total harmonic distortion + Noise. While the load is a resistor, which far from real-life impedance of a loudspeaker. And also you do this on a given power. Tube amps without negative feedback have more and more distortion as you power up, while the transistors with the negative feedback maintain a low distortion and start to just heavily distort after a certain level.

Power rating: Tells the amount of energy the amplifier can feed into a resistance (badly simulating a loudspeaker). You can share this value when the harmonic distortion is at 1% or. Example 40W@1%

Impedance, damping factor, and nearly that are the most you get as technical specs. Here lower impedance, higher damping factor may mean better, but how this cooperates with a real life loudspeaker is a different story.

Repair

I try to list failures which I saw with the AG9015 and explain my way of resolving these.

In general it is a good idea to replace electrolytes. Also, the carbon (brown small) resistors are a source of issues (always replace Replace R26, R30, R126, R130). Avoid heat stress on the small caps as these tend to get noisy with the repair. Swap things in pair and measure if both matching in value! Philips Mustard caps do not like heat, else they work forever, they are teh best.

Symptom: One channel has much stronger sound

Solution: Seeing the stronger 1kHz signal on scope on the 800Ohm output, became clear, that the stronger channel is wobling. As signal was fed in on C21, the end amp was clearly the suspect for issue. Checking resistances (especial the brown carbon one’s) became clear that R30 gone into the MOhm range and is not fulfilling any negative feedback(normal value is 120kOhm). Carbon resistors have perfect sound, but can easier fail. Please replace both channel with carbon resistor at the same time. This is the most common part which fails.

Symptom: hissing noise in one of the channel.

Solution: Remove one leg of C21 to separate circuit for end and pre amplifier. In my case issue remained (so end amplifier.) Such noise can be generated by a cap, so hard to think it is caused by an resistor. Through a high voltage, smaller cap try to short audio signal of the end amp. In my case in area of B3, B3′ was canceling the noise. After unsoldering C23, noise disappeared. As previously the area had several resistor exchanges the cap became damaged with heat of my solder iron.

Symptom: No sound, R38 burned down.

Replace resistor(both channel, take care on power rating), check tubes, avoid short circuit at the output

Symptom: No sound, R1, R2, R3 burned down

Replace resistors (take care on power rating), check tubes, avoid short circuit at the output . Please do not use bigger fuses then 125mA for the anodes.

Symptom: hissing noise in one of the channel

Similar hiss noise in the upper region, but noise is more white and is hard to hear (I realized it only with the 800Ohm speakers)

Solution: The 820Ohm carbon resistor became noisy. Replace it. (R26, R126)

Ticking noise (see video:)

https://www.facebook.com/groups/elektroncsoveserositok/permalink/670649066708000

Replace R26, R30, R126, R130, the NFB is cuasing as it becames positive.

Potentiometers

Poorman 5min solution is WD40 for contact. I am sometimes satisfied with the result. Better is:

You may use a 3 step spray solution: Kontakt 60 for cleaning, Kontakt WL wash , finally Kontakt 61. KONTAKT 60 removes oxidations, dist, grease. Keep it on for some seconds. (if you can’t rub, keep it on for 15 min), KONTAKT WL washes away residues of the previous process, KONTAKT 61 protects, helps is contact.

You may try to gently disassembly with bending back the metal tips (can easily break!), clean with isopropyl alcohol, clean with fiber scratch pen or with rubber (of a pen!) the surfaces. You will need a copper rivet as the inner potentiometr will be not accessible.

The original potentiometers could have issues with synchronous running… If you can’t fix it the replacement possibility for volume is:

ALPS RK27

These are the BLUE cubes. There is dozen of fake, so please take care what you source.

In short words, you need an stereo 500K volume potentiometer with long flat shaft.

For volume, you will need the dual unit for vol (12A)

Shaft type: flat – F

You will need the longer shaft – 25mm, but note, that the original shaft length is 30mm so you will need to do some magic here.

You will need no detent – C0

Resistance path 15A – A

Resistance 500K – 504

That is then RK27112A-F30-C0-A504

Unfortunately even that is too short and hard to get…, so

What really worked for me is an 500K Alps Blue potentiometer, with an round uncut shaft with a coupling, which I cut to size in a drill and shortened also. I also cu teh ALPS potentiometer in length + add a washer to minimize length on counterside. See pics:

For Balance:

I have no solution for you. You may skip the balance as is and use just the volume potentiometer. It is very interesting that the original balance control at the 2 paths has 0Ohm till the half path… In reality it works not good. I plan to disassemble and try to match them in the middle position where both are shorted… And also, well the short is somehow just 10kOhm… (oxide?)

AVC Volume control

Elma type 04 switch

04-2133 3 R(-) 00 000 (or longer with 15mm ) 00 0

32mm diameter , 45mm long, need shorter version