My AG9016

Step 1: Replace to new all electrolytes as after 70years they are dead. 100uF/25V:C40, C42, C10, C12, while the supply caps should be along the bigger the better phylosophy C1, C2, C3, (100uF/350V, 50uF/350V, 50uF/350V). If space allows even split left and right(like I did). Note: Take care on the new central GND how it is built up without loops. (central grounding philosophy on the internet. If you do nothing is fine also, but if you add phono, then not.)

Step 1.a: Think about to replace the graetz bridge as if it dies, it will kill the transformer which has no fuse. So add fuse also there…

Step2: Connect R6, and R36 from the tubes leg 2 to leg 6 – Removing R15, R45. Remove R8, R38 to disable unnecesarry tube. With this you are skipping the bad sounding tone control.

Step 3, Cut out C4, C34. Nobody needs loudness.

Step 4: Cut out C13, C43. These are limiting at ~10kHz with -3dB and killing highs. You may think that C11, C41 may increased to 6.8nF or more to get mere deep bass range, as the mentioned 3.3nF limits at ~70Hz with -3dB (after the driver tube at least). Leave it as is! The transfomers will not play with which is becoming dead below 80Hz, but causing a local bump with lot of distortion. Increasing C11m C41causes that gain at 70Hz will increase from +1dB to +2dB , while distortion increases further. so leave this as is. C14, C44 is not limiting below 30kHz so again nothing to do with it.

Step5: Apply contact spray on the volume control and the connectors.

Now you have 2x ecc83 from each side without a task. If we add one more ecc83, then we could have a nice phono preamp built in. Used the sam as in Ag9015 new phono, but skipped the ecc82, so after the second hal ecc83 have output via a 10nF cap.

Disconnect heater mid tap from ground, add DC elevated potentiometer like on Ag9015. 50-55VDC, to reduce hum.

Result:

My was like this factory mint condition. Was thinking to keep it as is, but has to be deaf to say that the sound is nice as is..

THD@1W (This amp is not capable of 2+2W!!!, 1W is the peak!)
8Ohm, 2.828V Vrms 1.7% 8Ohm speakers are recommended!
5Ohm, 2.23Vrms 2.8%
4Ohm, 2VRMS 4%

While the mid/highs are okay, below 80Hz it becomes really bad. You hear more bass as the 30Hz is having lot of harmonics at 60Hz, 120Hz… And it has a bump caused by the transformer at 70-80Hz, But real deep bass you can forget with this amp. Buy the AG9015, that has enough energy!

Frequency range:

30Hz-24kHz @ -3dB, with a lot of distrtion below 70Hz, +2dB at 70-80Hz

Interesting pages: http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-111-1163.html

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/16208-40-yrs-philips-ag9016-se-flea-power.html

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/philips-ag9016.70653/

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/saving-unican-erics-philips-ag9016-from-the-dumpster.580444/

https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=4689.0

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/16208-40-yrs-philips-ag9016-se-flea-power-5.html

New concept! I am still thinking how to improve sound of this amp.

Remove: global feedback. Control G2 with 0A2

found this interesting:

“1.55 ma is to low for good sound. Maybe it doesn’t enought for
input capacitance of EL95 . Try to increase to 5 ma /put 50 kom aprox. in plate, and 600-1000 ohm in cathode of ECC82/. And put EL95 in triod mode!”

An AG9018 restaruation

https://sonocite.wixsite.com/marantz-collector/rest-philips: Google translate: “I have been looking for a long time for this Philips chain, consisting of the AG9018 amplifier, the A6X38AT tuner, and the AG2230 record player for two reasons: the first is that we had this chain at home in the 60s, the second is that these devices were a “hinge” in Philips production: the amplifier is the latest Hi-Fi tube amplifier, and the tuner, the first “all transistor” manufactured by the brand. As for the record player, it was their first real P.U. high fidelity, as evidenced by its high manufacturing quality.

These devices were built with good quality components, in any case much better apparently than today …:

The amplifier, equipped with 11 tubes (4 x EL86 output – derived from the famous EL84), gives a nice impression of robustness, and is of a flattering aesthetic (let’s not forget that we are in 1964).

No gadgets, only the necessary: ​​two groups of selectors, PU – tape – tuner, mono-stereo, classic tone controls, volume and balance controls, and finally the Power switch “and its beautiful green light. It has the distinction of having two groups of HP outputs, either 8 or 16 ohms selectable by bridging inside the device, or 800 ohms (direct output without output transformer), suitable for the AD5055 baffles that were part The power of 2 x 15 watts (800 ohms) or 2 x 10 watts / real 12 watts / music (8 ohms) is sufficient with baffles with an output of 90 dB / 1W / 1M.

The retro-looking tuner has some very interesting features: FM band from 88 to 108 MHz, MW, LW and 4 short wave ranges! We even managed to pick up the radio signals (safety beacons to inform the boats). The FM part is very sensitive, and the stereo decoding easy. A mechanical clutch system selects one or the other hand depending on whether you are in AM or FM.

The turntable, developed at the same time, had to ideally complement this beautiful set. The general aspect exudes quality, is endowed with a special drive (however without fine adjustment of the speed) and is in agreement with the look of the amp and the tuner, by sporting the same materials and colors, teak, brushed aluminum and gray lacquer.

The AG9018 amplifier:

It comes from France; found by classified ad, it’s always a little bit quit or double: we see a camera on a photo but we don’t know what we will receive!

But here, no disappointment, the device arrived well packaged, in one piece, here it is as is (this is the photo of the ad):

As soon as received, immediately disassembled to test it, and there, surprise: no trace of previous repair, no component with questionable appearance, the measurements join the characteristics of the time, the power is there, the background noise very low , no sign of notorious snoring !!! Only the wooden case, the appearance of the grilles, and the interior dust betrays its advanced age. Not bad for a 49 spring device, the current manufacturers would do well to take the seed !!! but then pure profit was secondary. We did not put 1/8 th watt resistors, most of the non-polarized capacitors were of the “mustard” type.

So let’s go for a deep cleaning, direction the “bathroom”: degreasing and dusting.

It is not very dirty, despite all the years:

All the parts that can be dismantled are, for cleaning or deoxidation, or even repainting:

I repaint with a gun with a beautiful gray of my composition, presenting better than the sad gray – medium – original khaki, then drying at good temperature:

The fabric covering the front grille falling to shreds, I replace it with a piece of mosquito net: it will allow better ventilation than original. A small polishing of the shields of the preamp tubes and the aluminum plate is essential:

Here it is, all beautiful, very clean, being reassembled, above and below:

I clean and glue the acronym in the right place:

The real teak wood case is carefully sanded to 400:

After revarnishing in a shade a little warmer than the original (Philips had fairly dull woodwork tones at the time), complete reassembly after having replaced the outlet tubes with Sylvania Black Plate, which gives more richness sound, and here it is again, I hope, for another half a century!

The A6X38AT Tuner:

Also found through a p.a. of 2èmemain.be, it presented much less well …

No doubt he stayed in an attic, or worse, a cellar. The wooden box is very damaged, and has a depression on the top. The plating is to be repaired at this place, fortunately, the defective solid-state amplifier which is part of the sale will give the piece for”

El86

What to buy: Philips Miniwatt. Philips.

Mullard military sounds dull… Telefunken also so-so.

Valvo, EI, Sylvana, Tronal, RCA, Lorenz, Polam, RFT, Zaerix, GE, Motorola… unsure… you tell me.

Siemens NOT!

Philips Code structure: type| type | batch/construction –  factory | year |month | week

Type: (2letter) MI = EL86, 2F= EL86 Bee (unknown what characteristics is Bee)

Batch construction: (1letter) version number

Factory:

Δ    Heerlen, Holland (unsure if built EL86)

D    Hamburg, West Germany

B    Blackburn, England (GB)

L    Brussels, Belgium

1 2 3 6 9 Eindhoven, Holland

≠    Munich, Germany Siemens & Halske

X Y Sittard, Holland

Example codes:

MIB Δ 1A1 = MI= EL86, B=version B, Δ=Harlen, 1=1961, A=January, 1= Week 1

MI4 D1A = MI= EL86, 4=version 4, D=Blackburn, 1=1961, 1=?week?, A= ?change symbol?

el86 datasheet – single ended push pull circuit suggestionDownload

Later EL86 datasheetDownload